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The Croad Langshan Club

Transport boxes for large Croad Langshans by Clare Curtis

I have been asked on a number of occasions at shows where I obtained my transport boxes for my large Croads.

The answer is always that I made them myself. Not a difficult task really, if you get organised before hand. So here are the dimensions and details of how to make them for yourself.

I have included a wine bottle in the photo just to give an indication of scale. The smaller box is ideal for a female and it fits inside the large box for storage purposes.

The first version of these transport boxes for the large Croads were designed and made by Jake Jacobs. I was so impressed with the clever and light boxes when I saw them I decided to make some for myself.

Exterior grade ply was used for the construction material, 10 or 12mm for the base and top and 4mm for the sides. I used quadrant hard wood for the first two I made, but used 18mm square planed softwood for the second two. This was easier to handle being square section and also less expensive.

Large and small box dimensions
1. To start cut the sections of 4mm ply and the 4 upright supports.

2. Pin and glue the supports to the ply leaving enough of a gap at the top for the depth of the lid 10mm or 12mm plus the depth of the softwood rail on which the lid will 

3. Uprights can be left projecting from the bottom as legs or cut off

4. Measure and cut the lid to fit snugly into the top of the box, this is probably the trickiest part of the box. Make sure it is not too tight as it needs to be easy to lift and close.

5. Measure and cut the rails for the top structure of the box on which the lid will sit.

6. Glue and pin the rails in place

7. Cut the upright thinner rails for the front of the box.

8. Glue and pin in place inside the front of the box.

9. Cut the horizontal thinner rails for the front of the box and glue and pin to the front to make the front grid.

10. Measure and cut the lid to fit snugly into the top of the box, this is probably the trickiest part of the box. Make sure it is not too tight as it needs to be easy to lift and close.

11. Drill two 25mm holes at the centre of the lid to allow easy lifting.

12. Cut out two rectangles of softwood on which to mount the handles and pin and glue onto the outsides of the box.

13. Allow the glue to go off at this stage before drilling holes for the handles and hinges.

14. Handles and hinges are made from nylon webbing avaliable from haberdashery stores. Melt the edges of the webbing to prevent fraying and melt the holes for the fittings � I used a soldering iron to do this.

15. The hinges are easy to make, just drill two holes in the lid and corresponding holes through the back of the box. Use two strips of webbing to correspond with the holes in the box and lid.

16. Fix using repair washers and M5 screws and nuts - 20 or 25mm screws fit well.

17. Fit the handles by drilling holes through the softwood rectangles on the sides of the box and use M5 screws and nuts with repair washers to strengthen the fitting.

18. A ruck sack style clip secures the lid and two holes drilled in the lid allow for two fingers to lift the empty box.

19. Paint the box inside and out with a waterbased wood stain, I quite like the heritage colours but anything waterbased will do. Finally cut some welded wire mesh and fit to the inside of the front.

A grid made from rails of 6mm x 20mm wood will make an airy and open front to the box. I happened to have some oak off cuts handy, but you could buy strips of hardwood trim or cut softwood to fit.

Fit the rails inside the front of the box and ensure there no rough edges that could cut a comb of a bird.

At first I left my boxes open at the front but I found the rails too open and birds put their heads through and could damage their furnishings. I then added welded and galvanised fine mesh, sanded on the cut edges to ensure a smooth finish.

The boxes work really well and provide a good environment for transporting your birds. Four boxes will comfortably fit in the back of my car with the rear seats folded down. In Jakes version he cut the corners of each lid so that the legs from one box would stack into the lid of another box below, keeping them secure in the back of his van. I have left the legs on mine but haven�t cut into the top, though if I need to stack them I will consider it. Having legs stops the bottom of the box getting wet and dirty on the floor.

Clare Curtis 12 December 2006

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